Tellico Village Custom Home Builders | Jalyn Homes

Tellico Village (The Beginning)

Steve — Wed, 17 Nov 2010 13:26:51 +0000

To carry out its commitment, TVA encouraged Loudon, Monroe, and Blount counties and the Tennessee Legislature to create the Tellico Reservoir Development Agency (TRDA) as an independent state agency. TVA then turned over the 11,000 acres of shoreline lands to TRDA to manage for residential, industrial, commercial, and recreational development and for wildlife enhancement.

The first important element in the plan was Tellico Village. Cooper Communities, Inc. (CCI) of Bella Vista, AR, was selected in late 1984 as the developer for the planned lakeside community. CCI is a privately held company that, at the time, had successfully developed three other planned communities in Arkansas.

The purchase agreement for the 4,806-acre site for Tellico Village highlights the unique nature of the Village and sets it apart from the typical real estate development. CCI agreed to invest at least $10.5 million in infrastructure and amenities in the new community and make cash payment of $2 million. In addition, Tellico Village POA agreed to lease all roads, amenities, and other common properties from TRDA and make annual lease payments to TRDA. These annual payments currently total $299,340.

TRDA has used its revenues from land sales and leases to invest in a major job-training facility and to develop a major industrial park that currently provides more than 3,500 jobs to people in the surrounding counties.

Based on its Arkansas experience, CCI expected to sell most of the lots in Tellico Village to future retirees from out of state, brought here through a vigorous direct-mail advertising campaign. It envisioned small 1,200- to 1,500-square-foot retirement homes and laid out small lots and narrow streets accordingly. It initially priced lakefront lots at $35,000. Golf course lots went for about $30,000 and lake view lots for about $20,000.

According to the 1989 agreement, any balance will become due 12 months after CCI sells 6,189 lots. Current projections put that date “some time in the 2004 timeframe,” making the expected due date about 2005. CCI has indicated that it expects payment at that time. POA contends that CCI should have retired the debt through the use of gift certificates and has offered to negotiate a settlement. In a show of good faith, POA has agreed to establish a gift certificate retirement reserve fund beginning in 2000. The fund is expected to total about $900,000 by the expected 2005 due date.

CCI claims it was unable to use more gift certificates because it got poor response from its direct-mail marketing campaigns. “We didn’t use direct mail in the beginning because of the unexpectedly high local demand,” recalls one CCI executive. “When the local market started to dry up, we tried direct mail, but we were unable to generate as many guests as we predicted. The local sales force didn’t know how to sell the out-of-towners, and we actually brought in salespersons from Arkansas to deal with the out-of-towners.”

It has taken lonPOA took an historic step in June 1998 when it purchased 66 acres of adjacent property in the south end of the Village as a site for future amenities.

Opening of the Kahite Neighborhood, some 15 miles from the main Village, in 1996 is another milestone in Village history. Extending the full range of Village services to the remote neighborhood in an efficient, cost-effective manner is one of POA’s greatest challenges.

What is the difference between granite and silestone?

Steve — Fri, 05 Nov 2010 11:10:55 +0000

Yes - Granite is a natural stone and Silestone is a synthetic material made from quartz - that is the biggest difference. However, both have their pros and cons:

Granite -
Pros: Absolutely beautiful and natural. You will find more color and variation in a granite slab because if it’s inherent natural beauty.
Cons: Must be sealed on a regular basis to prevent staining. This “regular basis” will vary depending on use. It is also more expensive - it is heavy and the natural cracks and fissures in it make fabrication a little more difficult. It is also gets more expensive the thicker the slab you buy - or if you don’t want to buy a thick slab and just want the edges built up to make it look thick the labor to do the build-up is pretty pricey.

Silestone (or any other manufactured quartz surface, i.e. Zodiaq, Caesar stone, Cambria…)-
Pros: Virtually indestructible. You can’t stain it, scratch it, or burn it with everyday use. It DOESN’T need to be sealed because it isn’t porous. This also makes it better bacterially speaking. It’s more consistent in it’s pattern and color. Standard thickness is a 3cm slab - no built-up edges here! It also has a more contemporary look to it, which is great if that’s what you’re going for. Price per square foot is generally less - once you take labor into consideration as well.
Cons: Sometimes it looks a little “fake” especially when you have a sample of it next to a granite.

Waterproofing The Foundation

Steve — Thu, 16 Sep 2010 11:40:01 +0000

Every home needs a strong foundation. If a foundation is poorly protected, water can soak up into the concrete, causing cracks and weakening the home’s support. By using a waterproof spray and drainage board, you can prevent moisture from soaking up into the concrete.

The foundation handles water from roof runoff, and it drains water from above and below the ground. The problem with this is that without a waterproofing system, the foundation can crack under hydrostatic pressure — the force a standing fluid, such as water, exerts on the foundation walls.

You need a better method to successfully waterproof the foundation while also allowing the water to drain away from the home. By applying a waterproof asphalt coating to the foundation walls and by attaching a drainage board to the foundation, you can create a two-part system that gives the foundation a strong defense against water problems.

Here’s how you do it:

First you’ll need to spray the top of the footing with the waterproof coating before the foundation wall is set. This coating will stop any water from wicking its way up through the footer and into the home.
Before the asphalt coating is applied, you’ll want to make sure the foundation walls and surfaces are clean, dry and free of debris. Also, if any of your plumbing or electrical lines are below grade, make sure they are completely sealed prior to spraying.
Typically, waterproofing should extend up to 4 inches above the grade line. Mark the grade line so that you know where to stop. Then apply the coating evenly and consistently.
The final step in the process is to install a proper drain at the side of the footer to drain any bulk water away from the foundation.
When it comes to attaching a fiberglass drainage board, make sure the boards are butted up against each other with no gaps. The boards simply stick onto the asphalt coating. When using a drainage board with grooves or a dimple board, it should be oriented per the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The common method for waterproofing foundation walls is to apply a damp-proof coating to the walls. This “one-step” process seals all gaps in the concrete; however, a drainage board is not used. Although this is a simpler and cheaper method, it does not provide adequate protection from moisture buildup. As a result, it can lead to leaks, cracks and a buildup of mold. And remember — the leaks are not always obvious. If they are left undetected for too long, somebody’s going to pay for expensive repairs.

With a two-part waterproofing system for foundation walls, you are giving your basements the best protection against moisture buildup. You’re also helping deter mold and mildew and keeping your basements dry all year long.

What is a Vapor Retarder

Steve — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 12:08:12 +0000

What is a Vapor Retarder?

Moisture in the air in the form of vapor is transferred along with heat. This is especially common in humid environments and in certain areas inside a home - such as bathrooms, kitchens and laundry rooms. When moisture vapor becomes trapped, mold and mildew growth can result. Vapor retarders keep the moisture in the air in your house from condensing in the insulated cavities.

Whether or not you need a vapor retarder depends on local building codes and your climate. Generally, in hot, humid areas using a vapor retarder is not recommended. In mixed climate areas, the vapor retarder is optional depending on the total design of a building. In cold climates, a vapor retarder is almost always needed.

The facing on faced insulation acts as a vapor retarder. If you need a vapor retarder and your insulation is unfaced, you must cover it with a polyethylene film.

Faced Insulation

This is insulation with a facing already attached to it. Facing acts as a vapor retarder and is commonly made from Kraft paper or foil, depending on the intended application. In addition to its thermal and acoustical properties, faced insulation is ideal for moisture control on exterior walls. The type of insulation you need depends on where the insulation will be installed, what R-values are needed, and your budget.

Unfaced Insulation

Unfaced insulation has no facing attached to it. This type of insulation is effective when controlling unwanted noise in internal walls and to assist with moisture control. Where vapor control is required, a separate vapor retarder can be used.

A Green Home Begins with Energy Star Blue

Steve — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 15:34:12 +0000

Homebuilders and homebuyers across the country are increasingly interested in green building. But what exactly makes a home green?
Green building means improving the way that homes and homebuilding sites use energy, water, and materials to reduce impacts on human health and the environment. Building a green home means making environmentally-preferable and sustainable decisions Did you know that a typical home throughout the building process—decisions that will can cause twice the greenhouse minimize the environmental impact of the home gas emissions of the typical car? while it is being built and over the many years it will be lived in.
There are nearly 50 regional and national green home labeling programs around the country. While each program approaches green building a little differently, each incorporates important elements such as:
. • Energy-efficient construction techniques and products.
. • Improved indoor environments through environmentally-preferable materials and building practices.
. • Water-efficient products and processes.
. • Renewable energy options, when feasible.
. • Waste reduction and recycling during the construction process.
. • Smart growth and sustainable land development practices.

What should homebuyers look for first in a green home?
Energy efficiency is the place to start. That’s because the energy used in homes often comes from the burning of fossil fuels at power plants, which contributes to smog, acid rain, and risks of global climate change. So, the less energy used, the less air pollution generated. And the easy way to make sure a new home is energy efficient is to look for the blue ENERGY STAR mark, the government-backed symbol for energy efficiency.
ENERGY STAR qualified homes are independently verified to meet strict guidelines for energy efficiency set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. These homes save money on utility bills, provide a more comfortable living environment with better indoor air quality, and help protect the environment.

Typical features to look for in ENERGY STAR qualified homes include: Each ENERGY STAR qualified home can keep • An Efficient Home Envelope, with effective 4,500 lbs of greenhouse levels of wall, floor, and attic insulation properly gases out of our air each installed, comprehensive air barrier details, and year. And because homes high-performance windows; have such long life-spans, • Efficient Air Distribution, where ducts are this environmental benefit installed with minimum air leakage and lasts for many, many years. effectively insulated; • Efficient Equipment for heating, cooling, and water heating; • Efficient Lighting, including fixtures that earn the ENERGY STAR; and • Efficient Appliances, including ENERGY STAR qualified dishwashers, refrigerators, and clothes washers. These energy efficiency improvements save homeowners money—about $200 to $400 per year on utility bills. More importantly, monthly energy savings can easily exceed any additional mortgage cost for the energy efficiency improvements, resulting in a positive cash-flow from the first day of home ownership. As a result, the cost-effectiveness of ENERGY STAR improvements can help offset additional costs associated with other green home features. What comes after energy efficiency? Homebuyers can also look for the ENERGY STAR Indoor Air Package label—a new specification developed by EPA to address the indoor environment component of green building. Homes that achieve this level of excellence are first qualified as ENERGY STAR, and then also incorporate more than 60 additional home design and construction features to control moisture, chemical exposure, radon, pests, ventilation, and filtration. Together, these features help protect qualified homes and their residents from mold, chemicals, combustion gases, and other airborne pollutants. Completing the green home picture Through ENERGY STAR qualified homes and the ENERGY STAR Indoor Air Package, homebuyers can address two critical green home elements. Then, look to the wide variety of available green home programs to complete the picture with water-efficient products, renewable energy technologies, waste reduction, recycling, and sustainable land development practices.